Trees are quiet. They do not cry out when something is wrong. But they do give signals. If you know what to look for, you can catch problems before a branch falls on your roof or a tree drops during a storm. Here are five warning signs that mean it is time to call a professional.
1. Dead Branches in the Canopy
Dead branches are the most obvious sign of trouble, but they are also the most commonly ignored. A dead branch has no leaves in summer, brittle bark that falls off easily, and snaps rather than bends when you push on it.
The International Society of Arboriculture (ISA) identifies dead branches as one of the most common structural defects in trees. Dead wood is unpredictable. It can fall without warning on a calm day, not just during storms. The wood dries out, becomes brittle, and gravity does the rest.
Purdue Extension's guide to tree care (FNR-FAQ-14) recommends removing dead branches promptly. A few small dead twigs in the interior of the canopy are normal. But large dead branches, especially over a house, driveway, or play area, need professional removal.
What to watch for: Branches with no buds in spring when the rest of the tree is leafing out. Bark peeling off to reveal dry, gray wood underneath. Branches that have broken but are hanging in the canopy (called hangers or widow-makers).
2. Cracks in the Trunk or Major Branches
A crack in a tree trunk is like a crack in a foundation wall. It tells you something structural is failing. Vertical cracks that run along the trunk, splits where major branches meet, or frost cracks that open and close with the seasons are all reasons for concern.
Purdue Extension notes that cracks weaken the structural integrity of the tree and can be entry points for decay fungi. A crack does not necessarily mean the tree needs to come down, but it does mean you need an arborist to assess whether the tree can be managed or whether it poses a risk.
The ISA's Tree Risk Assessment Qualification (TRAQ) program trains arborists to evaluate exactly these kinds of defects. A TRAQ-qualified arborist can tell you how severe the crack is and what your options are.
What to watch for: Vertical splits in the trunk, especially if they go deep. Cracks where two major limbs join the trunk (this often indicates a weak branch union called included bark). Frost cracks that get wider each year.
3. The Tree Is Leaning
Not every leaning tree is dangerous. Many trees grow at an angle toward sunlight and have been perfectly stable for decades. But a tree that has recently started leaning is a different story.
A new lean usually means the root system is failing. You might see the soil heaving up on one side of the base, or cracks in the ground on the opposite side. This is an emergency. A tree with a failing root system can fall at any time.
Purdue Extension's guide on storm-damaged trees notes that leaning trees with soil disturbance at the base are among the most dangerous situations a homeowner can face. Do not try to cable it, stake it, or fix it yourself. Keep people and vehicles away from the area and call an arborist immediately.
What to watch for: A tree that was straight last year but is leaning now. Soil cracking or heaving around the base. Exposed roots on the side opposite the lean. The lean getting worse after heavy rain.
4. Mushrooms or Fungal Growth on the Trunk or Roots
Mushrooms growing at the base of a tree or on the trunk are not just cosmetic. They are the fruiting bodies of decay fungi that are actively breaking down the wood inside the tree. By the time you see mushrooms on the outside, there is significant decay on the inside.
Purdue Extension's forestry resources identify several common decay fungi in Indiana, including Ganoderma (shelf-like brackets on the trunk base), Armillaria (honey mushrooms at the root flare), and Laetiporus (bright orange shelf fungus, often called chicken of the woods).
Decay reduces the structural strength of the wood. A tree that looks solid from the outside can be hollow or soft inside, which makes it unpredictable during wind events. Ohio State Extension notes that decay fungi can reduce a tree's structural integrity well before any external symptoms appear.
What to watch for: Any mushroom or shelf fungus growing on the trunk, especially at the base. Clusters of mushrooms around the root zone. Soft, punky wood when you press on the trunk. Carpenter ant activity, which often indicates internal decay.
5. Root Problems
Root problems are hard to see because most of the root system is underground. But there are signs above ground that point to trouble below.
Girdling roots are one of the most common issues. These are roots that circle around the base of the trunk instead of growing outward. Over time, they strangle the trunk and cut off the flow of water and nutrients. The tree slowly declines over years.
Purdue Extension explains that girdling roots are often caused by trees being planted too deep or left in their burlap or container too long at planting. You can sometimes see a girdling root as a thick root pressing against the trunk base, flattening the normally flared shape of the trunk.
Construction damage to roots is another common problem. If heavy equipment drove over the root zone, or soil was piled on top of the roots, the effects may not show up for two to five years. The tree gradually thins out, with smaller leaves, early fall color, and branch dieback.
What to watch for: A trunk that goes straight into the ground like a telephone pole instead of having a flared base. Roots visibly wrapping around the trunk. Gradual thinning of the canopy over several years. Early leaf drop or unusually small leaves.
When to Call and What to Ask
If you spot any of these signs, the next step is a professional assessment. Look for an ISA Certified Arborist. This is a nationally recognized credential that means the arborist has passed an exam on tree biology, care, and safety. You can search for certified arborists in your area at treesaregood.org.
When you call, ask whether they hold TRAQ (Tree Risk Assessment Qualification). This additional certification means they are specifically trained to evaluate tree hazards using a standardized process. Not every situation needs a TRAQ assessment, but for trees near houses, power lines, or high-traffic areas, it is worth the investment.
Sources
- Purdue Extension FNR-FAQ-14, "Tree Care: Pruning and Maintenance" — PDF
- International Society of Arboriculture, "Trees Are Good: Tree Care Information" — Link
- Purdue Extension FNR-FAQ-13, "Tree Defects and Hazards" — PDF
- Ohio State Extension, "Diagnosing Tree Problems" — Link
- ISA TRAQ Program, "Tree Risk Assessment" — Link